Lingenhel

Review

A snack with DeLuca

Photo: Heribert Corn Meinl is great anyway. Lots of good things, neatly arranged on shelves. However, the gourmet supermarket on Graben is not about staging; the joyful presentation of pleasure and delicacies still seems to be considered embarrassing or inappropriate in Austria. The old song, which Johannes Lingenhel did not want to sing. The Vorarlberg native, who has created a small, fine delicatessen empire together with Christian Pöhl over the years, opened his new store in Landstraßer Hauptstraße last week, where you can not only look at and buy good things, but also have them sliced onto your plate on the spot. Just like at Dean & DeLuca in New York, Peck in Milan or one of the world's other best delicatessens. And from the beginning of July, there will also be a small restaurant and a town cheese dairy under the management of goat and buffalo cheese guru Robert Paget from Diendorf am Kamp. But Johannes Lingenhel is already happy that the store is open for business at all, which means that "happy" is perhaps not quite the right expression. Because he actually wanted to open last fall, MA 22 and MA 36 delayed the construction negotiations by eleven months, Lingenhel has been paying his employees since April ... Of course, you eat/buy with your eyes at Lingenhel. The display cabinets bend under the weight of 120 cheeses, around 20 special salamis, raw ham from Parma, San Daniele or Spanish pork, in the display the brown of the crusty bread harmonizes with the brown of the oak wood and the brown of the cheese rind, sandwiches loll in a small refrigerated display case and whisper seductively: "Take me." Opposite the large display case, a "Lümmelecke" has been arranged where you can lean back, drink a glass of wine and watch the huge wheels of Parmesan and mountain cheese maturing, "18 months old" is written there, "now it's actually 24". Lingenhel points to a refrigerated display case: "This is where we stage our truffle salami maturing, but half a pig can also hang there. Or just a stool with a white truffle." The pastrami sandwich is great. Although the cold cuts are from Roman Thum, others have them too, but here the sliced beef lives with great coleslaw in rye bread (€ 4.90). And the snack board includes prosciutto, salami, thinly sliced house sausages, game ham, Camembert and mountain cheese, all exquisite, at the right temperature and properly sliced (€ 7.90). The organic Riesling from Lesehof Stagård is also currently open. Let's put it this way: one has to be the best delicatessen in the city, and this is a promising candidate. Summary: a wonderful place for the eyes, nose and palate, finally open after an eternal delay, and in two weeks' time even with a cheese dairy. Lingenhel 3 Landstraßer Hauptstr. 74 Tel. 01/710 15 66 Mon-Sat 8-22 (store until 20) hrs

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