Das Glashaus – Restaurant & Bar

Review

... should not throw burgers

Photo: Heribert Corn class="x12-grundtext-neu-ini-2zeilig">In Krieau, interesting gastronomic projects have taken place and continue to do so. For example, the Graf Hunyady restaurant in the Tribüne, where Bernie Rieder cooked so ludicrously well in 2005 and 2006; four years ago there was a very pleasant container village temporary use called Cargo, and since last year Patrick Müller has been cooking his wonderful snacks. In fact, Krieau has long been recognized as an urban development area and has therefore been "used" piece by piece in the style of satellite towns in Lego house design. The latest retort district is called "Am grünen Prater", has a plaza and, as of a month ago, a restaurant. It's called "Das Glashaus", is run by the owners of the most successful restaurant on the WU campus and looks as if an algorithm has searched for "new restaurants in satellite towns". And in this restaurant made of glass and wood, you can expect the kind of food that people who take photos of their food love, i.e. creative burgers, the inevitable granola breakfasts and, of course, cheesecake. Almost everything is available anyway, but at lunchtime, the Glashaus can surprise you in the evening. It all starts with the fact that you can find the extremely rare CulturBrauer Vienna lager here, that the wine list includes really good and really rare wines and that the dessert selection includes products from the Swiss avant-garde cheese dairy Jumi. And that's not all, because while you're pondering what to eat here, the friendly man comes and reveals that there's also "old cow" - a foodie trend: for some years now, meat from dairy cows up to 20 years old has also been on offer, which is a little tougher but tastes dramatically better than young beef. But please! First a so-called "summer soup", which turns out to be a good, cold cucumber soup with chili oil, all kinds of cress and goat's cheese (€ 4.90), and even if pork belly with lentils seems rather autumnal, this sous-vide-cooked belly with really great balsamic-garam-masala-beluga lentils was just right on this hot and humid evening (€ 10.90). However, if the "Omakuh" is still available, we recommend the dark spicy ragout. This is great, but is accompanied by three shavings of dried beef with rather bland carrot vegetables and two pieces of very dark roulade braised dry in red wine (€ 18.90). Of course, you can also have a drink here, but the various designer spritzers cost as much as a glass of good wine and a margarita costs just under € 14. It remains to be seen whether this will work out and whether the people who live and work here will like a place like this. To sum it up: traditional city gastronomy, but still good - the new designer restaurant in Krieau is better than you would expect. Das Glashaus 2nd, Am grünen Prater 11 Tel. 01/348 35 53 Mon-Sat 9-24, Sun 9-18 hrs

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