Seesushi

Review

Sashimi Müllerin

Restaurant Mitsukoshi in the cellar under Café Mozart, sometime in the early 90s - the first sushi of my life; Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo at dawn 22 years ago, the sushi master of the market restaurant calmly builds his nigiris and places them on a sloping counter. You take what you like. I liked everything, I have no idea what I ate raw, it was incredibly good; Restaurant Bootshaus am Traunsee, another eight years ago, chef Lukas Nagl cut his sashimi from the crimson back of a wild carp from Traunsee, combined with home-fermented "soy sauce" made from dead trumpets - the most surprising and fascinating sushi experience I have ever had. In Japan, freshwater fish is not actually used for raw consumption. It is considered "unclean" there, its taste is muddy, the water changer salmon is a concession to the global sushi craze, not a love story. But you don't necessarily have to care about that, Dominik Edlinger didn't either. And after the well-traveled chef returned to the family business in Strobl am Wolfgangsee a few years ago, he and his sister developed "SeeSushi", a concept in which nigiri, sashimi and maki are made with char and salmon trout. In November, SeeSushi opened its first franchise in the Palais Ferstel, a tiny sushi bar with a few seats inside and a few in the passageway, a few nice wines are also available, wonderful. But the freshwater sushi theme is approached in a rather unassuming way. Sashimi, nigiri, rolls and Peruvian ceviche made only from farmed char and salmon trout, both carotene-dyed, the eye eats with you. "SeeViche" of char with chili sauce and green lemon marinade is good (€ 14), nigiri with flamed char and lemon zest a little bland (€ 9), the highlight of the raw fish parade is the fat belly lobe of trout, which is where it starts to get interesting, but is only available on request.
It's a pity that there are no "more challenging" fish on the menu, such as eel, eel rod, carp, tench, catfish, sturgeon, or that no local soy sauce, no local wasabi and no local rice are used, that would have been a bit of a joke. It's a shame that fat monster prawns from Bavarian container farming are wrapped in inch-thick panko breadcrumbs, but the SeeSushis can't think of anything to do with crayfish. Yes, that would probably cost a little more and perhaps require a certain amount of explanation. SeeSushi took the simpler and probably more successful route ... Really good sushi is an experience. And really good sushi also works with freshwater fish. However, this is difficult with a system catering concept.

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