LUGECK – Figlmüller

Review

The giant schnitzel antithesis

Photo: Heribert Corn That there were fears beforehand did not seem entirely unfounded: In the former Orendi department store, the rather pointless upmarket "Little Buddha" pasta shop opened in 2008 and soon closed again, the building stood empty for a long time until it was announced that the Figlmüllers would be taking over and leasing the basement to the "Bettelalm" lederhosen disco. Giant schnitzel, "Auf da Alm, da gibt's ka Sünd" and Buddha sushi, the imagination drew gruesome pictures ... But then everything turned out quite differently anyway. After all, the Jung-Figlmüllers had already proven with their figls (beer bar) in Grinzing and their Joma (brasserie café) on Hoher Markt that they were keen to expand the image of the rustic carvery, which was shaped by their ancestors, a little. For which they once again brought in architect Gregor Eichinger, who is known to like to rack his brains over atmospheres as such. And he dug deep into the city inn citation pot: for example, the formica tables (whose chequered pattern was borrowed from the banderole of the Cuban cigar Cohiba), the linoleum floor, the stylized room dividers, the oak lambris with integrated coat hooks, the beer tap, the bar and, above all, the visually defining element of the Lugeck restaurant - the tiles on the wall, which were enamelled by the iconic pottery maker Riess. Reminiscent of the Hansy at Praterstern or the former Smutny in Elisabethstraße. Of course, it's also exciting to see how the young Figlmüllers create a menu for their restaurant right next to their two schnitzel outlets. "Different", explain Hans and Thomas Figlmüller, because at Lugeck they are hoping for a guest garden that Figlmüller I and II don't have, which would undoubtedly lead to cannibalization in summer with a similar offer. So: a bit international, a bit Viennese, a bit trendy, a bit green. The baked sweetbreads (€ 13.50) are served alongside the "Wirtshaus burger" and a combination of roasted blunze, baked apple and mashed potatoes. Here with black pudding from the Blunzen-Gott Dormayer from Langenzersdorf and quite tasty (€ 9.80). Tafelspitz and leg meat from the Riess pot with Semmelkren are impeccable (€ 17.50), the fried chicken with creamed cucumber salad is perhaps a little puny, but well breaded and nice and juicy thanks to the buttermilk marinade (€ 12.50). And if that's all too mainstream for you, you can also get pork loin from Porc noir de Bigorre from the Bucklige Welt, which is really something special. By the way: the list of craft beers is impressive, the wine list consists almost exclusively of representatives of the "natural wine" scene, Michael Wenzel's Furmint is even available by the glass. With all due respect! Sometimes things turn out better than you think. Summary: The city restaurant of the year 2014 - with Viennese cuisine as well as modern salads, with craft beer and natural wine. Lugeck 1, Lugeck 4 Tel. 01/512 50 60 daily 11.30-24 h

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