Der Fuchs und die Trauben

Review

Except for the name ...

Photo: Heribert Corn The danger of Beckmessing is in the air from time to time, which is why we want to consciously face up to it here so that we can then get on with the important things: The name "The Fox and the Grapes" sucks. Not only because there are already enough stupid names, but also because the essence of the fable of the fox and the sour grapes was somehow not really understood. So that's it, because this new restaurant, which Ken and Patrick Reitermayer opened in mid-December in the otherwise rather quiet Kandlgasse, is really great. It looks really good with its Andalusian tiles used quite discreetly in the seating niches, yellow light from industrial lamps, beautiful wooden furniture, gray-blue painted walls, lively bar and openly visible (but shielded with glass) kitchen. And it also sounds really good with its sound mix of soul and soft jazz. The black table is full of wines that you would love to drink, and Tegernsee beer comes out of the tap, which is known to go down like water, but tastes much better than this. Ken and Patrick Reitermayer are new to the Viennese pub scene. At least a little, as their father has opened around 90 pubs all over Europe in the past 25 years, including quite a few in Vienna, some of which have made history (Segafredo am Graben, e tricaffè), and their sons have traveled the world accordingly.
This is reflected in the DFudT's menu, which is completely unpretentious and informal: a fusion of Spanish, Italian, Japanese, North African and American cuisine, presented in the most appealing form in the Western world - as tapas. Deep-fried pimientos de padron, for example, the best little green peppers in the world (€ 3.90); or tempura made from okra and sweet potato with wasabi mayonnaise, basically great, the mayo was unfortunately too bland (€ 4.50); or polpette toscane, quite fluffy meatballs seasoned well with herbs with a first-class marinara sauce (€ 3.90); or homemade, crispy fried gyozas with a meat, cabbage, spring onion and ginger filling, extremely good (€ 4.90) Or extremely good "pinchitos", small skewers of intensely seasoned, grilled, juicy pork, whose only glaring flaw was that two skewers are simply not enough to make you happy, both at this price and in view of this delicacy (€ 5.50).
Burgers with homemade ketchup or chicken & blue cheese baguettes are also available and are certainly great anyway, but the tapas sound much sexier. It's just a shame that the crostini with codfish cream were out. Summary: Tapas, finally a bit different than usual - funnier, more creative, fresher, more handmade. Almost like they do it in Barcelona. Der Fuchs und die Trauben 7th, Kandlg. 16 Tel. 01/231 39 17 Tue-Sat 5pm-1am

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